Tuesday

Tuesday started with an 8.00 a.m. communion service in the KCTC chapel (actually one of the classrooms). These are always uplifting services as the singing is wonderful and there is a real sense of communion amongst the students and staff. Once again, Obadiah and Fareth translated for us and helped us find our way through the service. It is interesting how you can sometimes tell where you are at by the rhythm of the prayer or responses even though they are in Swahili. Absalom welcomed the students at the start of their new year and made the point that we have to be humble in our relationship with God, not trying to compete for a better position. We took communion and then Absalom asked each course group to stand up so that the others would recognise them. That is when we discovered that our English class had doubled in size to 8! There may even be two more joining, but who knows? We were asked to introduce ourselves and I couldn’t help but tell them that today is our silver wedding anniversary – cue much applause and delight.

This required some rather drastic rethinking of our lesson plans over breakfast and we decided to reinforce yesterday’s lessons for those that were there and introduce the new people to the course. We managed to find extension material for the two advanced students, so I think everyone got something out of the lesson. It was exhausting again, however as we taught from 9.45 until 1.20 with only a 10 minute break! Nevertheless the students worked hard and concentrated very well. Our new students are Elias, Reuben, Jeremiah and Timothy and all are starting from a low base. Today we focused quite a bit on pronunciation and did lots of practising in pairs while we listened in.

Still no word from Rwandair. I tried phoning, but after hanging on for 3 minutes I gave up. I have emailed them and then noticed a live chat thing on their website. I never got past third in the queue so gave up on that as well. I suspect that Christine’s case will be staying in Kigali!

As we have been trying to sort out the luggage issue on line, Tim has been secretly organising a surprise celebration meal for our silver wedding anniversary. Naomi came back in and cooked a delicious combination of rice, cabbage, macaroni something, chips and peanut sauce. It was excellent and we ate our fill.

However the bag hung over us like a bad dream. I had eventually got the phone number of the manager of the Lost and Found Office of Rwandair, one Antoinette and had a full and frank exchange of views with her. Her bottom line was that if we could get a taxi to pick up the bag she would give the driver $80 to defray costs. I tried to argue for the other $20 to go to Rusumo but to no avail. I was to email her with his name and she would make sure he got the bag. I texted Peter, our driver from Kigali who replied that he would pick up the bag etc. I asked him to give me his surname and he also sent his ID number which I then sent on to Antoinette. He was so keen to please that he went straight to the airport, where they then demanded photos of Christine’s passport and the form we had been given when we reported the loss. I tried to text these but they wouldn’t go so in the end I had to ask Peter for his email and managed to email them to him. Then we sort of lost contact.

By now I was feeling frazzled. As I went to bed my Tanzanian phone rang and when I answered it all I could hear were some men shouting in the distance and distortion. Thinking it was Peter trying to contact me I phoned back and got someone talking in Swahili who then hung up. I texted him and got a very strange text back in English. I think it was someone at the place we had bought our SIM cards from. He had phoned my phone to test it and so I suppose my number was in his phone. All very strange, but I turned the phone off and so far there have been no more strange calls. Peter then emailed to say that he had received the pictures, but no news of the bag.

Wednesday

I found it hard to get to sleep, but eventually dropped off and slept well through to about 4.00 a.m. which seems to be a pattern. At 6.45 we got up and found a message from Peter that he had the bag and was already on his way to Rusumo! I phoned Thomas who arranged for Imam to drive to Rusumo to pick up the bag leaving at 8.30. Tim and Esther kindly agreed to go with Imam as we had to teach.

On arrival at the classroom we discovered another student, Philipo. So now we are nine. He seems quite able and probably needs to be fast-tracked along with Joctan and Flora. Christine led the lessons today. At our short break about 11.20 Christine was delighted to find that Tim and Esther had returned with her bag – drama over – well at least until I start writing letters to Rwandair to try to extract the rest of the costs of their mistake. I suspect I will be whistling in the wind, but still.

I had to go to teach computing at 12.50. I wasn’t at all clear what was wanted, but Absalom had said that the students needed to know how to lay out an essay, so I took them through the basics of how to lay out a document using titles, subtitles, headers, footers and references. 15 of them crowded around my laptop was not the best way to learn, but there was no other option. When I had finished, I said that if they now liked to try this on a computer I would come around and help. A young man with glasses piped up, “Excuse me Sir, but some of the students do not know how to turn the computers on.” Oh dear, I had pitched the whole lesson at too high a level. So I went through basics such as switching on, opening two windows at the same time and the basics of the keyboard. Then they went off to try it themselves. There seemed to be only two computers working. “What about the others?” I enquired, “I saw them working yesterday.” “There is a power cut Sir, so we can only use the two which have batteries.” The barriers to learning here are just so immense! We had found a laptop in a cupboard in Tim’s room which seemed perfectly fit and when we had asked Absalom about it he had said, “Oh yes, we must do something with it.” Now seemed the time, so I went and got it and now there are 3 laptops in the computer room that can run on batteries – only 5 students to a computer – quite an improvement. As I went around helping, I was impressed by how much they had remembered but concerned about their fine motor skills. Many of them found moving a cursor to a particular icon quite difficult. Unlike our children who spend their time on mobiles, tablets and laptops from an early age these do not, although most have mobiles now.

The lesson was quickly over. Now I know what level most students are at I shall modify my lessons accordingly! There was a good lunch waiting for us on our return and then it was time to settle down to a post-prandial. Lesson preparation followed and then a walk. The rest of the items sent by Valerie to the Ruzubelas had now arrived in Christine’s bag, so we took them round to their house. They were delighted and we were invited in. We sat and talked with John, while rose disappeared. After about 15 minutes we made to go as it was getting close to sunset and we wanted a walk. However Rose had made some tea and we were invited in to the living room to meet her mother who was sitting on the floor with some grandchildren of her son’s. The poor woman was almost blind and apparently is quite ill with high blood pressure. She shook our hands and kept saying ‘Asante sana’, although why she was thanking us I wasn’t sure. Feeling a bit embarrassed, we asked if we could pass on the tea and come back another time, as we had little time left for a walk before sun down. Making our excuses and promises to return we left.

We walked briskly past the hospital and found that today had been market day in Murgwanza. The stalls were being packed away. We headed for the path around the back of the hospital as the sun set and just made it home before darkness fell. Who knows how many more we shall have in the class tomorrow! We wait to see.

It was all going so well. A leisurely rise; some last minute packing; a sandwich for lunch. Tim and Esther arrived in plenty of time and we waited for Roger, our taxi to the airport. He arrived a little late, which gave Christine cause for worry. Getting all the luggage in proved tricky and Tim ended up with a case on his lap, but we were soon hurtling down the motorway. We arrived in plenty of time, went straight through check-in and security, had a bite to eat and then boarded the plane. We were about 30 minutes late leaving, but it was a good flight and we even managed a little sleep. On arriving at Kigali we sailed through the visa business and waited for our luggage, and waited. Eventually three of our cases arrived, but that was all. Christine’s smaller case was lost in transit! We went to an office and reported it missing and left contact numbers etc. We were assured that it might be on the next flight. When we said we were going on to Kagera they said that they could get it to the Rasumu border for us. Frankly I’m not so sure! Tim and Esther had gone through and met with Eugenia and it was good to see her when we eventually came out. We looked carefully at the print out I had been given but Eugenia’s number had not been recorded, even though I had given it. We tried to go back in, but of course the security team were not keen. Eventually I was allowed through and Eugenia’s number was duly recorded.

Not a good start, but an afternoon visit to the Kigali Genocide Museum but everything in perspective. Two taxis were waiting for us at the airport, one for our luggage and me and everyone else in the other. Kigali really is one of the cleanest cities you could visit.

There is very little litter. Everywhere there are street cleaners with their besoms. Plastic bags are banned. Parks and green spaces are all around. New houses are going up on the outskirts and there is a real sense of prosperity. Scripture Union looks magnificent and we were shown to some very pleasant rooms with balconies. Sam greeted us and made us feel so at home. Today was actually a public holiday, so Eugenia and Sam had given it up to look after us which was very kind. We had a rest and a shower – icy cold, but refreshing and then lunch. Somehow the message hadn’t got through that we are veggies, so some chicken legs awaited us. However the beans, carrots and chips were delicious as was the fresh pineapple.

Tim wanted to show Esther the Genocide Museum and we needed to restock with necessaries that were in Christine’s suitcase. Peter, our taxi driver, drove to the Museum and dropped off Esther and Tim, then took us to the shopping mall where we had been before. The supermarket has an eclectic range of items. Lots of women’s clothes, but no knickers (bloomers were available, but Christine declined), toothpaste, but no brushes, cosmetics and perfume but no deodorant. On the way out we passed a women’s dress shop and decided to try there. Success and we no longer had to call Christine, Nicholas! A toothbrush was acquired at a pharmacy and we proceeded back to the Museum.

The entrance has been moved since we were last there and now includes a brief introductory film and the gift shop. As always, the whole thing is a very moving reminder of the brutality we are capable of inflicting on each other.The mass graves are set in beautiful and peaceful gardens, a fitting resting place for those so brutally murdered.

We took the audio tour which was clear and informative. We didn’t venture upstairs to the children’s room as we couldn’t take it last time, it was too distressing. We met up with Tim and Esther and Peter arrived to take us back to S.U.. We had time for a brief nap before a delicious veggie dinner including a large number of passion fruit! By 8.30 we were settled down to sleep and saw little of the night until about 7.00. The wnew Scripture Union building is quite something and we had a very comfortable en-suite room with a balcony overlooking Kigali.

Saturday

We breakfasted at 9.00 and we’re away by 10.00. Peter agreed to take us via the airport although the security is so tight there it is not that easy. We had to get out on the approach road and go through individual security, while the car went under some very modern machine that apparently checked all our bags while they were in the car – amazing! We arrived to find yet another level of security to get through to get to the Lost and Found office. They would only let one of us through, so Christine went on her own. I was banished outside. Thomas then phoned to say that he was already at Rusumo and was expecting us! I had to tell him we would be another three hours at least. When eventually Christine returned it was to say that her bag was in Brussels and would be in Kigali on Sunday. I said that we needed it delivered to Rusumo not left in Kigali. So Christine went back in and returned with Grace who insisted she could not make a decision, but would have to speak to her boss. We should phone her before 3.00.

We set off and made good time . Tim had bought some sandwiches for us to eat for lunch, so at a toilet break in a garage, he gave these out and we happily ate as we continued our journey. The road deteriorated as they are rebuilding it and there are lots of roadworks. However Peter drove very well and we arrived after 3 and a bit hours. Thomas had phoned to say he would meet us at the Rwandan side of the border, but we went through to the common border post. So we had to phone Thomas again. He arrived and it was good to see him and Imam again. It took us about an hour and a half to get our visas, mainly because there are not enough border staff. However we were beginning to relax into African time, so it wasn’t a problem.

This time we drove on the main roads to Ngara avoiding the ferry. The roads were as bad as I remember with axle-shattering potholes. We arrived in Murgwanza to be greeted by Absalom at Principal’s House. It is the same as ever! We shall be looked after by Naomi who had left us a very tasty pizza of sorts. Before we unpacked I insisted that we walk to the ridge to see the view – it is breath-taking! 

Then we walked to the cathedral and met Fareth. We unpacked and had our dinner. We were just sitting down to have coffee when who should call but Rose and John – we could have laid odds they would be first! But it was lovely to see them and hear their news. Tomorrow is the ordination day so we need an early night if we are to face a 4 hours plus service!

Sunday

O.K. 4 hours was an under-estimate, 6 hour’s was nearer the mark. Tim went off before us to get his instructions. We arrived just as the Bishop’s procession was entering the cathedral. Bishops Aaron and Darlington gave us friendly waves as they entered and we felt rather awkward bringing up the rear.

Still no-one seemed to mind and we were shown to an empty bench near the back. It was a lovely service full of life and celebration. Not only were there 8 deacons being priestess but also some officials of the Mothers’ Union being inducted including a new president who looked very splendid in a white and blue outfit with a hat to match. Bishop Darlington spoke very well. Obadiah came and sat behind us to translate for us, although at times it was hard to hear him as the microphone was so loud. The bishop talked about using resources wisely, about change that was going to happen and about the deacons being sent out into the world like the disciples. It was very uplifting and the congregation clearly loved it. The choirs were superb, singing and dancing with great enthusiasm. Then a deacon and his wife were brought to the front and we were told that their house had burnt down and they had lost everything. Gifts were asked for and it took a long time for everyone to bring their gifts up and to say a few words! The Vicar General tried asking them not to speak, but there was nearly an open rebellion so he had to let things continue! Finally we got to the ordinations, each of which took about 5 minutes, then there was communion and finally about 3.00 p.m. we were released, aching, hungry and thirsty into the outside world.

We rushed back to the house as Tim was bursting for the loo. Then we went to the Mothers’ Union building for a hefty late lunch of potatoes, bananas, beans, two types of rice, cabbage and, to our great delight, peanut sauce!

We sat on the top table with the bishops, while the rest of the invited guests sat on chairs in rows. After the meal we came home and collapsed. Later Christine and I went for a walk along the ridge in the evening light. It really is just the most beautiful view, but very hard to photograph well.

When we got back we found the Mzebeli boys, Esau and Jonathan, being entertained by Tim and Esther. They were delighted to see, Jonathan remembering us from 2 years ago. Esau is a very articulate young man and we had a very interesting chat about education in Tanzania. Eventually they left and Tim cooked us a delicious spaghetti with tomatoes and onions. After reading for a short while we were ready for bed. Our new mosquito tent proved O.K. although it is a bit tricky to get in and out of. It also has to be said that it is positively cool here at night, if not actually cold. I wish I had brought thicker pyjamas!

Monday

It was very windy in the night and we were woken by leaves and twigs hitting the roof of the house. At Christine’s insistence we rose early to prepare for our first teaching day. There was some confusion as we tried to get photocopying done and sort out what was in Dotty’s trunk, but eventually we made a start. To our surprise there were only four students. Absalom thought more might arrive during the day, but the number remained persistently at 4. It soon became clear that 2 of them were relatively advanced and able, while two were struggling. Four meant that with three teachers they were getting almost individual attention, but it also meant that it was very intensive and by the end of the day I.e. 1.30 we were exhausted. However they are very pleasant students and we had some good laughs as they struggled with the oddities of the English language. Jocatin is very advanced and quite impatient and wants to know everything at once. He is 25 but still rather impetuous and boyish. Flora is about the same age, perhaps younger and is quiet, thoughtful, keen and able. Ananea is married and quite serious, already a priest of sorts, but without any training ( perhaps an evangelist?) and really struggles. Deus likewise is married, 30 years old and has virtually no English. He is, however, very keen and has a big smile. Tomorrow we shall divide them into two classes- beginners and elementary!

We returned exhausted to find a lunch of rice and beans cooked by Naomi with a fresh fruit salad. We settled down with a book after lunch and had a nap. Tim and Esther had been in town in the morning and had come back with supplies and some money, but had not managed to get a SIM card for the WiFi hub. I decided to ask Thomas to accompany us into town and help us get it sorted out. We also needed new phone cards as it was costing us a fortune to phone Kigali to sort out Christine’s luggage. Promises to phone back rarely materialised! The luggage is in Kigali, the problem is getting it to the Rusumo border. I found Thomas who was eager as ever to help and ten minutes later he drove us to Ngara.